Cheddar Gorge Trail – Cheddar, Somerset

Conquering my cliff top personal ‘Everest’ and a memorable walk around the Cheddar Gorge

On two separate occasions, one particular trail has defeated my best endeavours, the Cheddar Gorge Trail in Somerset. Not a particularly long or exhausting hike but one that had become my own personal ‘Everest’ to overcome. On the first occasion, attempting this trail in the middle of winter proved a futile experience, the weather turning against us when we reached the cliff top edge pushing us back down a wet and slippery slope. There were a few bruises and muddy shoes and trousers. Four years ago I attempted to do the trail again, this time with a break in the pandemic affording an opportunity to get down to Somerset. On both occasions this particular trail described as ‘challenging’ by the National Trust proved to be one summit too many to overcome. With a new found determination, over the Easter break I was motivated to try and finally complete this walk in a beautiful part of the country.

Rising up to 400ft and around 3 miles long, it doesn’t test your stamina for long distance walking but is a great physical challenge, affording some incredible views of the valley below. One lesson I learnt from my previous attempts was to only face into this particular challenge after a couple of dry days, the ascent particularly on the North Cliff can get muddy and slippery very easily making it a perilous path after a little rain. With a few days of sunshine over the Easter break, it seemed an opportune moment to pull on my walking shoes and attempt to finally overcome this trail that had eluded me for a number of years. Very quickly I realised the ground wasn’t as dry or stable as I would have hoped and a brief shower at the top tempered my enthusiasm a degree but the determination and ambition were there and it was a challenge I finally overcame.

“The only way to discover the limits of the possible
is to go beyond them into the impossible.”
Arthur C. Clarke

Heading up, getting wet and getting dirty. With a few spectacular views and disinterested goats for company.

On a cloudy morning in March, I pulled on my walking shoes, threw my backpack into the passenger seat of my car and set out to walk the cliff top path in Cheddar. I usually head out early and enjoy the more solitary experience these walks provide. After a short drive through the Mendip Hills I arrived at the carpark opposite the visitors center and took a few moments to orient myself to the challenge at hand. It’s a lovely town to visit, on this particular occasion quiet, peaceful, serene. The circular path along the cliff edge begun with a short walk up the gorge towards the caves entrance, the initial ascent along residential tracks was relatively straight forward, clearly sign posted and the more perilous steeper path through fields is now closed off which was a welcome relief. Reaching the first level point after climbing afforded a clear view of the river and town below, a welcome sight before continuing up into the trees and path above.

With some moisture and rain overnight, the ascent up the north cliff was more perilous and challenging underfoot than I had hoped for. It takes a different set of muscles to overcome these types of elevation when hiking, certainly I can endure long distance walks at this point but the gradient on the ascent was a tough one and left me feeling tired when I reached the summit. Thankfully I was afforded some spectacular views of the valley below from this vantage point. I’ve managed to complete this climb on two separate occasions, it’s a challenging hike up to the top but the reward is worth the effort. Despite a chill in the air, it was worth taking a few moments to sit down and appreciate the view beyond. You can go a little off the beaten path at the top, a steep and perilous drop to the valley below certainly enforces a sense of humility. At least it should.

Continuing along the north path provided an opportunity to reacquaint myself with Cheddar’s other resident’s, the wild cliff top goats that were enjoying a lazy morning in the sunshine at this height away from society below. You find yourself in their domain, respecting that boundary and continuing on your way. What I hadn’t anticipated was how quickly the weather could change at this elevation, a sudden downpour of snow and hail soaking me through although thankfully I had my rain jacket on that tempered the worst of the weather. It certainly tempered my enjoyment a little. With more perilous walking conditions the path changed from a little muddy to vast stretches of water and thick mud sucking your shoes and boots inside. I’ve walked in winter in similar conditions and that thicker, more absorbent surface drains the energy from your legs and makes every step an exercise in attrition.

I approached the end of the north cliff, descending down artificially made deep steps cut into the terrain with the path diverting at this point, a shorter alternate route with a more gentler walk down along the road through the gorge or back up into the woods. With a stubbornness to overcome this challenge it meant heading back up. Perhaps not the wisest choice but manageable to a degree, the track growing narrow and more challenging at this point with long deep puddles and thick muddy banks, and steep drops to the side giving few choices besides getting dirty and wet as you pushed forward. The north cliff and the half way point presented itself along a residential access track leading back to the road at the top of the gorge and presenting the ascent up to the south cliff. If the wooded track at the start of the walk was foreboding, the south ascent looked perilous to the extreme.

Clay paths, wonderful views and accepting when to fall over and pick yourself back up again.

The ascent to the south cliff look almost impenetrable from the roadway, not so much a path more rocks sticking out of mud though thankfully the sun had emerged at this point and the cliffs felt more welcoming. It’s amazing the effect even a slight change in weather can have on your psyche, especially during periods of physical exertion. Clearing the first initial series of rocks and stones, the south cliffs opened up, a contrast to the more secluded and isolated cliff edge opposite. It had an interesting feel, quite desolate in parts but more open on the ascent as you climbed back up to reach the top. This was the last final ascent on this particular walking path, the top of the south cliff relatively flat with a few exceptions in part. This side of the gorge is also accessible from the stairs leading up to Jacob’s Ladder, a tower built at the end of the trail to afford views of the valley below.

This side of the valley is more open, passing through fields I finally emerged onto the cliff top edge, my shoes soaked through and covered in mud. It was worth the effort, in the late morning sunshine, reaching the summit of the cliffs afforded some wonderful views of the town below and another point to just sit and reflect on the challenge overcome at this point. The stairs up from the visitors entrance is certainly an easier and more direct options to reach the same destination but it felt more fulfilling, sat there with muddy shoes to feel that sense of accomplishment having walked the entirety of the north cliff, crossing over and hiking back up to enjoy the view before me. You do become self aware seeing other people in a more pristine state having climbed the stairs how unkept you are, equally not a particular state of mind that bothers me too greatly

Having made the climb up once before, this part of the south cliff was recognisable and worth taking a few moments out to capture a few images and enjoy the moment. From here, you could see the village getting a little busier as people arrived to take advantage of the Bank Holiday sunshine and long weekend. Continuing on, the path below had a more clay like consistency after the brief shower earlier, and with a certain inevitability I felt my legs go from beneath me and took a stumble. Thankfully, no one was around to witness my fall, all I recall at this point was that feeling of resignation and acceptance, it wouldn’t be a painful or life threatening experience but just one that would leave me with muddy trousers and a dent to my pride having walked for over three miles over more perilous terrain and keeping my feet the entire time.

Brushing the mud away and realising I now looked even more unkept, I continued on, perhaps giving second thought to those who crossed my path heading down, contemplating walking further up along the cliffs and instead opting to enjoy the views and go back down the staircase to the carpark below. The staircase leading to Jacob’s ladder is a steep descent back down to the valley floor with a couple of passing points for those that need to pause and catch their breath. Heading down, there was a feeling of accomplishment and pride I had managed to walk the entirety of the cliff top trail in less than ideal circumstances, besides a small bruise on my leg where I had hit a stone falling over and some muddy clothes, I was relatively unscathed and had finally managed to overcome my personal Everest in completing this trail.

Closing Thoughts

Emerging into the village below, it was a remarkable contrast to when I had arrived earlier in the morning. The carpark was full, cars waiting to drive up further into the gorge along the roadway, the village full of life and activity. Standing there covered in mud and feeling exhausted, I knew I needed some sugar and energy having completed the hike on an empty stomach so decided to change my shoes and visit a local store to get a soda. Every time I manage to get down to Somerset, I do enjoy making the short drive over from Glastonbury to spend a little bit of time here, it’s got such a lovely, old fashioned feel and appearance. Of course I do have a soft spot for a good cheese and Cheddar has a wealth of varieties if you feel so inclined. On this particular visit, I felt a measure of triumph and accomplishment having arrived earlier with a sense of trepidation at the challenge ahead and managing to overcome it.

Certainly it was probably the slowest I’ve walked a four mile distance, but equally I could come to peace with that particular statistic, fully aware every step along those muddy tracks above was a more arduous and challenging experience to overcome. In contrast to some of the other physical challenges I’ve faced into in recent years, the long distance walks along the Thames for example, it was nice to come away with a feeling of accomplishment and completion having overcome this challenge that has been unattainable for a number of years. Having turned 40 back in December, there was a determination to continue with these more physical challenges to avoid slowing down, to continue to get out and about to see and experience these moments in nature of such idyllic beauty it leaves you feeling humble and sedate. A ‘challenging’ hike, certainly, but more importantly a challenge that had eluded me and one I could finally say I had accomplished.

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